Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Floating like a butterfly...stinging like a bee

 

That's my boy Andre Botha from S. Africa busting a huge invert. Boogie Boarding takes it to the next level.  I remember my first trip to the N. Shore of Oahu.  I went solo, but I knew some of the other pros that were gonna be there from CA.  During my college years I was really into it.  I got in the water nearly everyday and I was also competing.  I had enough units in school at U.C. Irvine to take a quarter off from school, so I headed out for 51 days.  I stayed at the infamous hostel on the N. Shore "Backpackers." I had no idea what I was getting into.  From Newport Beach to the country living in Oahu.  It was a trip with so many memories to last me a lifetime.  I met some of my closest friends while I was there.  I remember my first day out there, I even surfed Pipeline.  It was mid size and super crowded, but just the exhilarating experience to finally be out in the line up of Pipeline was amazing.  Its a place you always dream of going to in the surfing world.  You gotta test yourself and see what your physical and mental limits are.  During that trip I came close to drowning, getting caught in the reef at Log Cabins.  I ripped my knee open getting smashed on the reef with a huge gash that needed stitches but I chose to just duct tape it.  And on a funny note I fell down off of a bike when I was coming back from surfing Off The Wall. It was a very bad fall, trust me.  But I survived all of it and lived to tell.  The following winter I went to Kauai to stay with my cousin.  I went the winter after that to Oahu with all the boys from 662 Mob.  Went back again for Halloween in 2006.  I'm still in great shape for being 31 and I plan on heading out on a surf trip this year, don't know where yet, but it will be somewhere exotic filled with barrels. 

Live out your dreams...

A.G.

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